The Bourgogne, or what used to be called Burgundy, region is the most famed region for wines made from Pinot Noir or Chardonnay and is the Worldwide reference point for the production of these two varieties. But what makes Bourgogne so special and what do you absolutely need to know about this amazing wine region? Let me break it all down for you in 2 minutes more or less.
Located in the Central Eastern portion of France, Bourgogne is actually the amalgamation of 5 very different sub-regions, four based on Chardonnay or Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and one based on Gamay Noir, though they grow a little Chardonnay as well. These are from, north to south, Chablis, Cote d'Or, Cote Chalonnaise, the Maconnais and Beaujolais. While Chablis is solely dedicated to Chardonnay and Beaujolais nearly entirely dedicated to Gamay Noir, the other three combine Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to produce reds, whites, a little rose and fair amount of Cremant, a sparkling wine made via Methode Traditionnelle.
The long geographical corridor that is Bourgogne covers a myriad of soil geology and topographical features as well as climatic zones, that get progressively more Mediterranean as you move south. This creates a complexity of styles beyond those attributable to the varied winemaking practices of thousands of vignerons in the region.
From the pure pristine Chardonnays of Chablis to the sunny more opulent Chardonnay of the Maconnais, Bourgogne offers multiple expressions of this noble grape. The Pinot Noirs of the Chalonnaise and of the famed Cote d"Or offer a vast range of expressions due to Bourgognes complex soil and varied expositions.
Classically white fruits, citrus, white blossoms and minerality define fine Bourgogne. The fine acidity making them perfect for food. The wines age gorgeously developing nutty, mineral, honeyed and caramel tertiary elements of almost unequaled complexity for Chardonnay wines. Names like Montrachet, Corton Charlemagne, Chablis Grand Cru and even Pouilly Fuisse evoke tactile sensations of perfectly crafted Chardonnay. The Pinot Noirs of Chambolle Musigny, Vosne Romanee, Volnay, Beaune, Nuits St. George and the other famous villages and their associated Premier and Grand Cru climats are the ultimate expression of Pinot Noir and French terroir. Often imitated but never equaled.
The Gamay wines of Beaujolais, especially the 10 Crus led by Moulin a Vent, are the epitome of Gamay wine. From the cheery aromatic delicious Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages to the more intense, less fruity Crus, Gamay here achieves a level of quality that often exceeds that offered by most of the Pinot Noir coming out of the rest of Bourgogne. Underappreciated, except by the those of true wine acumen, these are still undiscovered treasures. They are also amazingly food friendly across a broad spectrum of food types, textures and colors. Spend extra and get the good stuff.
Producers are the key to fine Bourgogne and the best place to start is with fine negociant-eleveurs like Louis Jadot, Joseph Drouhin, Bouchard Pere et Fils, Faiveley, Duboeuf, Trenel, Moreau but there are some mid to small producers that are still affordable.
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