The French wine region known as Champagne is one of the most famous and popular wine regions among wine drinkers and yet it is one that is little understood nor appreciated for its relevance with regard to food and the full breadth of its offerings. In this short excursion, I will unpack the complexity and the uniqueness of Champagne and open up a whole new world of wine and gastronomic possibilities for you.
Champagne is located in the Northernmost wine growing region of France, that makes it perfect for the cultivation of grapes that achieve just the right ripeness levels for premium sparkling wine production. Technically, it is the only wine region whose produce can legitimately call itself Champagne and now by International Agreement and domestic law, that distinction is being safeguarded.
The production of fine Champagne requires grapes capable of achieving just 11.5 to 12% abv, to which another 0.5% will be added in the winemaking process to create the lovely bubbles. The phenolic compounds developed in this very cool climate area is just what is wanted, as the focus is on acidity, terroir expression from its inimitable soil geology and the flavors developed in the winemaking process itself. The classic expression of a fine Champagne is one characterized by an ethereal lightness yet a fullness of creamy flavors that mirror a bouquet of yeasty fresh bready notes, citrus blossoms and minerality reminiscent of wet stones. The fruit is just ripe green fruits like apples and pear intermingled with ripe citrus. The soil is made up of a special combination of chalky limestone and marls. Most Champagne is dry including the Rose versions, which are some of the best but there is a small portion of wines made either as the semi-dry Extra Dry and the sweeter Sec, Demi-Sec and quite sweet Doux. Frankly all of it is delicious and as far as food and wine pairings go, opens up a whole world of possibilities. The impact of extended lees aging with vintage Champagne and Lux Cuvees along with the fresh berry and floral elements associated with Rose style Champagne creates flavor profiles conducive to successful pairing with shellfish, earthy light meat dishes, salmon and even a fine steak or roast.
The region is divided into 5 sub-regions each with slightly different soil compositions and favoring the production of one or more of the three primary grapes of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier as well as three secondary but rare grapes Petit Meslier, Arbane and the little planted Pinot Gris. Pinot Noir brings structure, color to Rose, berry fruit, florals, Meunier adds a fruity (not sweet) softness of palate and Chardonnay adds elegance and minerality.The sub-regions are the Montagne de Reims, Vallee de la Marne and Aube (Cote des Bars) that are dominated by the red varieties and the Cote de Blancs and Cote de Sezanne which are dominated by the white Chardonnay.
Non-Vintage Champagne is produced from a mix of multiple harvest, older ones held in stasis, and up to 100 different vineyard plots or climats. The sweetness or dryness of a Champagne is determined just before bottling with a finishing liqueur mix called the Liqueur d'Expedition, applied after disgorgement of the accumulated solids. Vintage dated Champagnes come from a single harvest and are required to be aged longer (3 years vs 15 months for NV) on the lees and in bottle and in practice often longer. Rose is produced by adding a small percent of red wine during base wine blending or less commonly with the Liqueur d'Expedition.
Making Champagne is a long and costly process, hence the price tag. Lux cuvees like Dom Perignon, Cristal, Fleur, Rare, Comte, Grand Siecle, R.D and Salon may see 5-10 years of aging before release. Grand Cru or Premier Cru designated Champagne come from vineyards so rated in the early 20th century. They can be single named climats or a blend of several. While no guarantee of superior quality, they are potentially sourced for the best sited climats of the region. Producers are always your best guide to quality.
To start try Taittinger, Bollinger, Roederer, Ayala, Laurent Perrier, Perrier Jouet, Charles Heidsieck, Delamotte, Deutz, Henriot, Lanson, Pierre Peters, Ruinart and Vilmart.
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