Tuscany is the most famous of Italy's wine producing regions and one of the largest in production volume. There are more Internationally acclaimed DOC/DOCG rated areas located in Tuscany than in any other region. The star grape here is of course Sangiovese. Chianti was first historically among the great wines of Tuscany but has since been almost eclipsed in terms of status by Brunello di Montalcino and a host of what was once referred to as Super Tuscans. Today, that latter term is abused and used for much mediocre wine but the originals and those that sought to immitate them are still among the very best and most prestigious of all Tuscan wines. Names like Sassicaia, Tignanello, Ornellaia and newer ones like Orma still make me salivate with anticipation. Originally, a true Super Tuscan was an off-scripted wine that shunned the constraints of the regulatory boards of the famed Tuscan DOC's like Chianti and sought to make the greatest wine they could from whatever grapes were available to them and by whatever method produced the best wine. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah or even 100% Sangiovese was forbidden under the "Disciplinare" and these wines had to be labeled, ridiculously, as simple "Vino da Tavola". Later they were granted IGT status and finally, in more, recent times awarded their own DOC's. Today, marketers like to call any Tuscan blend that contains some os those International varieties as a "Super Tuscan" but don't be mislead, much of it is just mediocre plonk masquerading as a "style" of Tuscan wine that pales in quality next to the "Originals". Essentially, most of these so called Super Tuscans are just mediocre blends that are basic Toscana Rosso in not-so-cleaver marketing disguise. They fail the test with the popping of the cork. Some of these are, however, good quality easy drinking Tuscan reds at an attractive everyday pricepoint.
The region of Tuscany or Toscana gets it start as a true wine powerhouse through the efforts of a Baron Bettino Ricasoli vineyard owner and famed Italian Statesman, who played a major role in the unification of Italy. His contribution to Chianti was his 1872 prescriptive formula for the classic blend of red and white grapes and their proportions. Though Chianti no longer uses this formula, it was in place for a considerable amount of time. The other important historical character for Tuscany was Ferruccio Biondi-Santi who produced the first Brunello di Montalcino along with his Uncle Clemente at the "Il Greppo" estate in 1888. To this day, both Castello Brolio (Ricasoli) and Biondi Santi remain two of the finest estates in all of Tuscany. Their historical significance and impact cannot be exaggerated.
In more modern times, the contribution of the Marchesi Mario Incisa della Rocchetta and his nephews (through marriage) Lodovico Antinori and his brother Piero are probably the most significant among many others. Antinori has become one of the most famous and widely distributed brands of fine Tuscan wine and both Lodovico "Ornellia" and Piero's Tignanello along with Nicolo Incisa's Sassicaia are now legendary true Super Tuscans of stellar quality. Along with them came the rise of high quality producers in both Montalcino and Montepulciano, which was once the famed home of the "Nobile" wine. Despite the rising fame of Super Tuscans and Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico and some of the other sub-regional zones of the Chianti DOCG like Rufina and Colli Fiorentino and Colli Senesi are producing finer wines with each passing year, some the equal of those of Montalcino. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is also on the rise in recent years after a long slumber and is perhaps one of Italy's best kept secrets.
Within the major DOC/DOCG's there are several levels of quality with each producer that generally follows the pattern of "regular" bottling or "Normalle", followed by a Riserva level and one or more specific plot or specialized cuvees. The price is usually a good indication of the scale. Younger vines and/or cuvees deemed less worhy of the premium offering of a winery are blended and bottled as Toscana Rosso, basic Chianti Classico, Chianti DOCG, Rosso di Montalcino, Rosso di Montepulciano and the like. These can offer some great values and wines that are ready to enjoy at their optimum development at an earlier age that the premium offerings of a given winery. So, buy and cellar the premium cuvees and drink these while you wait and your money will have been well spent.
Most or the region focuses on Sangiovese reds but there is also some great crisp white wines and rosatos produced here as well. Vermentino, Vernaccia,Trebbiano Toscana along with some Chardonnay have given the Tuscans a good palette to play with especially with lees contact, barrel fermentation and/or aging. Other rising sub-regions with exciting wines, among the more than 50 DOC/DOCG's, include coastal DOC's like Maremma, Bolgheri, Montescudaio, Morellino di Scansano DOCG, Suvereto DOCG, Montecucco, and Carmignano DOCG, just west of Firenze.
Expect the basic whites to be modestly fragrant, citrus, white fruits and mineral with occasional stone fruit and tropical components, floral inflections and good acidity. The reds medium bodied with dried florals, herbal notes, mineral, red fruits intermingled with darker fruits, notes of pleasant leather, tobacco and earthier notes and good acidity and modest tannins especially in youth. The finer whites will have more texture, leesy notes, oak and vanilla notes and the reds will be fuller, more intense and added complexities like licorice, chocolate, cocoa, espresso, hints of caramel, graphite, fine oak, vanilla, cedar and so on. Tannins and acid structure will be more noticable but the youthful tannins will resolve with modest cellaring and will greatly reward patience.
Finally, some producers to start with: Antinori,Banfi, Ricasoli (Brolio), Frescobaldi, Mellini, Coltobuono, Felsina, Renzo Masi, Selvapiana, Castello di Verrazanno, Rufino Reserva Il Ducale, Monte Antico, Nozzole, Il Molino di Grace, Castello di Ama, Rocca della Macie, Fontodi, Castellare di Castellina, Tenuta di Arceno, Castello di Fonterutoli, Tenuta Lucignano, Carpinetto, Querciabella, Lamole, Montevertine, Volpaia and Luce. For Brunello di Montalcino - Biondi Santi, Barbi, Costanti, Il Poggione, Siro Pacenti, Val d'Orcia, Uccelliera, Sesti Argiano, Casanova de Neri, Piccolomini, Frescobaldi, Castiglion del Bosco, Caparzo, Cortonesi, La Rascina, Val di Suga, Fanti, Lissini, Fuligni, Le Chiuse, Paincornello, La Gerla, Cerbaiona, Villa Banfi, Mastrojanni and Valdicava. For Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Avignonesi, Poliziano, Boscarelli and Dei.
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